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Replacement OBD II Cable
Price : $38.25
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Replacement OBD II CableOBD-II Generic interface cable allows connection to most GM, Chrysler, Ford EEC-V, Asian and European models, and allows trouble code retrieval, as well as, live engine data. For use with EZ-Link units that are NOT CAN-compatible.
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OTC (OTC3305-137) Deuce 02 Deluxe Software Update Kit for OTC Monitor
Price : $935.95 $629.99
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For use with OTCs Monitor Elite and Enhanced Monitor. OBD II, Ford DCL, and Chrysler CCD compatible. Includes both Pathfinder 99 and Deuce 02 software cartridges. Provides diagnostic coverage on 92 to 02 Chrysler, Ford, GM, Jeep, and Saturn vehicle systems. Deuce 02 software also provides Asian import coverage from 1996 thru 2002.
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Actron CP9125 PocketScan Automotive Code Reader with PocketThermTM IR Thermometer!
Price : $99.95
Features
: - Reads and erases Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and turns off check engine light
- Enables user to quickly and easily link to their vehicle
- Compact tool, fits in your palm
- Includes CD software that contains an additional 3,000+ Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and their descriptions
- Includes the CP7875 IR Thermometer
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PocketScan Code Reader CP9125 is an easy-to-use tool for novice and light-to-moderate DIY customers. It enables the user to read OBD II diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) from the on-board computers of 1996 and newer cars and light trucks. This gives the user the ability to quickly determine the cause of the "Check Engine" light coming on. Once repairs are made, the PocketScan allows the user to clear the trouble codes and turn off the light.
PocketThermTM IR Thermometer:
This non-contact temperature reader safely measures surface temperatures of hot, hazardous or hard to reach objects. Simply point, click and read.
Features:
Temperature range of -27º to 428º F (-33º to 220ºC)
Instant, accurate response
Compact and lightweight
Backlit LCD display w/ dual readings
More than 30 hours of continued use
Replaceable battery included
Uses:
Exhaust systems
Electronics
Cylinder head
Catalytic converters
Heating & cooling systems
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OTC 3860HD Genisys Domestic and Asian Heavy-Duty Standard Deluxe Kit
Price : $4,497.99 $1,675.00
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GenisysTM Heavy-Duty Standard Deluxe Kit
Includes GenisysTM scan tool, OBD II Smart Cable, Automated System TestTM, Heavy-Duty Standard software, USA 2007 Domestic with Pathfinder, Repair-TracTM, Fast fixesTM, USA 2007 Asian, InfoTech 2006, USA 2004 ABS/Air Bag software, manuals, adapters, and domestic OBD I vehicle cables (for GM, Ford, Chrysler, Jeep, Saturn), and carrying case.
Includes Coupon for FREE USA 2008 ABS/Airbag Software Update (sent within 30 days of purchase)
Includes Coupon for FREE USA 2008 Domestic & Asian Software Updates (sent within 30 days of purchase)
Includes Coupon for the Cash, Scan & Ride Contest Promotion (sent within 30 days of purchase; For complete rules and regulations visit www.cashscanandridecontest.com)
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Nemisys Scan Tool Kit with USA 2006 Domestic Software OTC3797
Price : $1,249.95 $850.00
Features
: - Supports powertrain, transmission, ABS, and air bag systems, Gasoline and diesel engine coverage
- On-screen definitions of OBD I trouble codes, OBD II generic and OBD II manufacturer specific codes
- Displays OBD II freeze frame information , Displays readiness test status, Displays O2 sensor test
- Reset "check engine? lights
- Customize data views in line graph, LED, or digital format with the push of a button
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Nemisys is an automotive scan tool designed and powered by OTC Genisys technology. Nemisys covers early OBD I systems and all OBD II protocols, including the newly released Controller Area Network (CAN) protocol. CAN protocol was introduced in 2003 model year vehicles and is the mandated protocol in all new vehicles by 2008. 3797 Nemisys Vehicle Coverage: GM '84-2006, Ford '84-2006, Chrysler '88-2006, Jeep '91-2006, Saturn '91-2006, USA Asian '96-2006 (Global OBD II) USA European '96-2006 (Global OBD II)
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Questions & Answers
Question : A question for those auto technicians out there...?
Where I live there are two auto parts stores. Knecht's and Schucks. Knecht's has helped me with my 2003 Ford Focus when the 'check engine' light has come on. It came on once more and Knecht's tool was out for repair. Shucks ran a diagnostic and told me the problem, but refused to reset the light. The reason give was, "Corporate won't allow them to because it ruins the computer." Was I being fed a line of bull? Sure felt like it... I would appreciate your feedback or experience with this. Thanks!
Both offer these tests for free. When I figure out the real problem, I will buy the parts, say for the sensor, and replace it. It's only come on 3 times in several MONTHS. The Focus hasn't had any other mechanical probs, runs great, never has lost power, smooth running, i.e. no problems detected by naked eye and physically checking the components. I'll be going back to Knecht's. Thanks for those who replied>
Answer:
What would "shucks" have to gain by not resetting the light in your car? It didn't make you (the customer) happy by them not resetting the light. They didn't sell any more parts to you by not resetting the light. I think the "shucks" guy is probably telling you the truth, as dumb as the truth might sound.
In sue-happy America, "schucks" probably got sued by someone at some time for "ruining" the computer in their car while doing a FREE diagnostic check. While the person who sued them may or may not have won the lawsuit, the company decides to avoid risking any other similar lawsuits by making it corporate policy to never let its techs reset the check engine lights using the diagnostic tool again.
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Question : Car experts, help!!!!!?
Hey... I've had on going problems trying to get my 97 Cavalier started and on the road again. (See link below, to read ALL details in two blogs) And.... I have hit a MAJOR road block, now.
Had my car towed to a Chevy dealership, with the mindset that they would run a diagnostic with the Tech 2, and find out the problem.
The car does crank, just not turn over... But....
They said they couldn't even use the scan tool on it, because the wiring as all wrong?
So... Questions:
#1 - Why couldn't they use the scan tool, if when the key was turned, all lights worked, and it cranked (just didn't competely start)? Does this sound right to you?
#2 - Is it true that I have to buy a BRAND NEW wiring harness from them? Everyone I talked to said that a wiring harness from the same year, same make/model, auto trans, same engine should work. The engine wiring harness I bought from a salvage yard was from the exact same type car (manufactured in 96, but is a 97 model I found out).
- It the wiring harness is not wired right, would the lights even come on, and it try to crank?
What should I do? Is it possible to somehow trace the wiring problem, if there is a wiring problem?
DETAILS: http://gypsysunrise.multiply.com/journal
Firebird - That was NOT the first step to diagnosing a no-start!!! As I said, all the details are in my blog. The PCM fell out of the car while driving down the road, and ripped the wiring harness, so.... it obviously had to be replaced. I've had no start situation since.
Rob - Thank you for your answer. You are probably right, regarding the dealership. But after calling local shops, it appears that the dealership is the only one local (small town) with a Tech 2 scan tool . =/ So.. Yeah.. That's why I thought it would be a good idea. I wouldn't have taken it to the dealership if I knew they wouldn't be able to use the tech 2. Again, thanks for your answer! =)
Brandon, thank you for your answer. =) Yeah... The fuel pump isn't coming on. And the anti theft light is coming on and staying on, too. I am so lost, maybe it is time to junk it. I don't know. Again, though, thanks!
Frank, thanks for your answer. WOW, I wish I knew that before wasting all the money on the tow bill, and labor charges at the dealership. I told them on the phone that it wouldn't start, and I just needed a tech 2 diagnostic, they should have told me they couldn't do a tech 2 diagnostic w/out the car running!! This is frustrating beyond words...........
Answer:
Okay, so you're getting the runaround on your car. Maybe I can help...
I, too, have a 97 Cavalier. Since purchasing it a year ago I've run into just about every problem imaginable...including your "no-start" problem. I know it sounds crazy and not logical in the least, but tightening the battery ground cable actually fixed this, and all of my other electrical irregularities. After tightening it down with a few washers and a bolt, it fired right off, and ran fairly well. In retrospect, my guess is that the loose ground cable made my car think the wiring was messed up, and somehow triggered the Theft System as well. Kinda strange but nothing with this model of car seems to make sense!
I hope this helps, though knowing Cavaliers, anything could fix it.
P.S.: Still to this day, however, I cannot get an OBD-II reading from my car. I'm not sure what that problem is but it now runs fine without it, so I deal with it. lol.
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Question : My 1998 Ford Escort wont start?
I was driving on the free way and experienced a sudden loss of power, as i coasted off the freeway and came to a stop the engine died and wouldn't re-start. The motor turns over but wont fire. I changed spark plugs and wires, checked fuel filter for flowage and went down to Auto Zone and rented a diagnostic tool which tells me "PASS [no codes were detected]" I'm stumped and don't know what to do next.
whats the easiest way to check the timing belt?
I am also getting spark from the spark plug wires
I removed the oil filler and looked down it while i turned the engine over and nothing moves in there.. i also noticed a square shaped chunk of metal cut out that i dont know if its supposed to be there or not
Answer:
You know why? Because its a 1998 Ford Escort, that's why!
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Question : Why won't my 1994 GMC Jimmy 4.3L v6 vortec start.?
There are times that it would only take 2 times of cranking it and it will start and then there are times that I would have to crank it 20 or so times and it would finally start. If it wouldn't start after that I would have to get a jump, and it would start right up. Once I got it started in the mornings it would start just fine all day. I changed the battery and the people at the auto part store said that the alternator was charging. It still wouldn't start right. Now it won't start without a jump and it has to have a jump through out the day. The other day the check engine light came on so I had the people at the auto part store check it with diagnostic tool and they said that it came back that it was the MAP sensor(It is using more gas and does run rough). So I changed it and it is still doing the same thing. I don't know if the two problems have any thing to do with each other. I just wish it would start. If anyone knows what it could be please let me know.
Answer:
sounds like ignition. start with spark plugs and wires. then distributor cap and rotor. then check the timing.
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Question : Who's your daddy? Answer's at the drugstore (What Do you Think?? About That. )?
Who's your daddy? Answer's at the drugstore (What Do you Think?? About That. )?
Answer:
i was just telling my sister about the home D.N.A. she didn't believe they were being sold in stores. i think they are a great idea. now all those lil girls /women can stop making a fool of them selves on Maury because it looks so ignorant and disrespectful. and it's cheaper than going to a lab or the court system.
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Question : Auto diagnostic training?
Hi everyone I'm looking for a training program that would teach me the skills i need to do engine diagnostics. I dont have much knowlege about it but my dad tells me its a good field to get into. I cant find anything usefull on the web but What i want to bassicaly do is purchase the diagnostic tools and software to connect them to my laptop and learn how to use it to determine what what is wrong with a car, I will not be repairing it just diagnosing it. Also I'm only interested in equipment for japanese and european cars. So if anyone can help me with ideas on how to get started with this, or references to courses, or even what tools I should get, please inform me that would help me out tremendously.
Again thank you
Answer:
I work for Ford [which includes Volvo, Mazda, Jaguar, Land rover etc] and getting a job as a diagnostics engineer is superb but very complex. This end of the diagnostics chain is best because you get to design the diagnostics capability of the system BUT as a diagnostics engineer for a garage, you just read codes [VERY EASY!] and say whats wrong, not much to it.
Tools such as WDS/IDS [maybe Ford specific] are worth investigating, which read off diagnostics code and if you know the ECU Supplier, they can provide what the codes mean.
I trust this helps? I would really appreciate it if you could please rate me as BEST ANSWER :-)
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Question : 01 Nissan pathfinder check engine light came on with code p1320?
hi i have a 01 nissan pathfinder with a 3.5 liter 5 speed manual. at about 103000 miles i changed the sparks. now at alittle over 104000 my service light came with the code p1320 got it from advance auto parts diagnostics tool. it is a ignition primary circuit fault code. it also said it could be something wrong with ignition or it is a misfire which i think it is. it doesnt even idle right anymore. it seems like it wants to stall. when i accelerate the engine hesitates until about 2000 rpm where doesn do it so much but it still is alittle rough. anything under 2000 rpm it vebrates rumbles. are my coils going bad?? spark plugs bad?? what can it be i don want to take it to nissan and pay more than 500 dollars to fix when i can fix it myself?? i need help
Answer:
hi i have a 01 nissan pathfinder with a 3.5 liter 5 speed manual. at about 103000 miles i changed the sparks. now at alittle over 104000 my service light came with the code p1320 got it from advance auto parts diagnostics tool. it is a ignition primary circuit fault code. it also said it could be something wrong with ignition or it is a misfire which i think it is. it doesnt even idle right anymore. it seems like it wants to stall. when i accelerate the engine hesitates until about 2000 rpm where doesn do it so much but it still is alittle rough. anything under 2000 rpm it vebrates rumbles. are my coils going bad?? spark plugs bad?? what can it be i don want to take it to nissan and pay more than 500 dollars to fix when i can fix it myself?? i need help
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